Cambodia Day 1: Phnom Penh

So post-Cambodian holiday, things are still as sucky. I hate going for interviews, having to explain my ideals to people, and being exasperated their feeble minds are so firmly entrenched in the now and the I that it thoroughly sickens me. But on to happyer things: my trip to Cambodia:

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So the trip started off with a early morning flight to Phnom Penh. I think perhaps the redundancy of army and reservist must be addictive: the first day is always some exceedingly meaningless [relative to the other days, which is also meaningless] series of events collectively known as in-processing, which mostly consists of waiting in bunk in various positions of rest. But when you reach Phnom Penh at 9 am, there's alot of day ahead of you, and I don't think it's wise, or worthwhile, to lull the whole day in the hotel, which, is not the one in the picture above. Our hotel was opposite, and while now quite as big, it looks quite nice. The exterior is not much, but interior is very ethnic + rustic + advant garde. And our room is the deluxe superior room, or as KM puts it, 'the most bottom option'.

So it's almost quite regrettable to leave the cool comfort of the room for the harsh Cambodian sun, and the even harsher tuk tuk touts. The first tuk tuk we hailed quoted 10USD, before we finally whittled it down to 4USD. At our destination, which was quite away from Phnom Penh, no other tuk tuk driver would take us, so we ended up paying the same guy 6USD to get us back [So he got his 10USD in the end]. It's almost blackmail. Going back to the hotel cost another 2USD [from another guy], relatively cheap, but haggling took like almost 15 minutes [tks to KM] and we promised to book the guy the whole of tomorrow.

The couple of places we went to on the first day included the Killing Fields and the S-21 Genocide Museum.

Actually I still cannot make heads or tails on what happened during the Khmer Rouge. In fact, the first time I was here, my friends who showed me around mentioned that many of the younger generation of Cambodians don't believe the genocide ever happened. The Killing Fields is where they supposedly ship people from the S-21 prison to execute them, and it's now open to the public for 2USD per person.


There's a nice nice memorial there now, but I heard long ago, it was just a series of wooden shacks, and a big field where they buried the people in after they killed them. Lonely Planet seems to have a beef with outsourcing, and made several rather derogatory comments about the fact the the Killing Fields have been outsourced to a Japanese company. I'm neutral about outsourcing; afterall, a certain government has proven that you can don't outsource a memorial but they are still not above turning it into a carnival area for commercial convenience and gain.


If you're into a career in forensics, the Killing Field/Cambodia is a good place to start. The Cambodians will not fail to stress how each person died, by looking at the damage done to the skulls. Cracks, holes, dents all have a story of their own to tell, and these stories usually involve clubbing, bashing, a gun, or any combination of them.


This is the tree where they supposedly hung a loudhailer to drown out the sounds of the dying so people around wouldn't know what's going on. I don't really get this part: if you're in absolute power, why the need to hide whatever you are doing.


And here is one of several holes littering the area where they buried their victims after killing them. The holes have all been supposedly exhumed, but the holes remain.


The poster tree of the revolution. So the most famous killing method the Khmer Rouge had was when they smashed the head of a child or baby on the tree, like a baseball bat, and this is the tree where they did it on. Master Sang. 6th Dan Tae Kwan Do has this training protocol where he teaches us to practise kicking by kicking the tree. He advises 'not to harm the tree'. I think he worries unduly.

Next it's off to where it all begun: the S21 prison, entry at 2USD per person where you get to check out the place where prisoners were tortured and interrogated there for about 3 months on average before being sent off to be killed. In many ways, I think the Killing Fields is alot more humane than the prison; you go there and you die, rather than a protracted process of pain and suffering. I didn't take much pictures there, because I think this place has alot more baggage than the Killing Fields, and you never know what you can accidentally capture. So the place used to be a school before being converted to a prison. The first floor was mainly the administrative offices and torture chambers; the prisoners, when not being tortured, were held in either makeshift wooden cells barely a shoulder wide and only almost as long as an average person, or chained up on the floor where they laid side by side with others. Tortures included this gymnastic bar which they used to hang prisoners upside down from, to dunk into this big jar of putrid water, and lots of not so nice things with spikes and sharp edges.

There was a screening of a documentary on the S21 prison at one of the rooms. Not sure if they wanted us to relieve the S21 experience, but the room was dark and sealed up, with only one small fan blowing in the corner. I fell asleep halfway; I awoke to find that half the room was empty.


A word of caution: generally asiarooms.com is a good place for your hotelling needs, but there is a good reason why a hotel is labelled 'hot deal'. Not that our hotel was just beside the S-21, or had bloody gloves in the room, but it was rather far from everything, especially food, and Phnom Penh tuk tuk drivers are persistent blood suckers, although the good thing is we got to see extra extra things, like Cambodia's rendition of Gayworld, as above.


First real meal in Cambodia, and it was not bad. From top, some Cambodian pad thai-y dish, sour soup, and the dish I had: Khmer curry, which was more savory than spicy, because I think their focus seems to be more on the coconut milk.